STAIN REMOVING GUIDE FROM NATURAL STONE SURFACES

 FIVE MAJOR CLASSIFICATIONS OF STAINS:

-- Organic stains (i.e. coffee, tea, sodas, gravy, mustard, etc.)

-- Inorganic stains (i.e. ink, color dies, dirt - water spilling over from flower and plant pot, etc.)

-- Oily stains (i.e. butter, margarine, motor oil, etc.)

-- Biological stains (i.e. mildew, mold, etc.)

-- Metal stains (i.e. rust, copper, etc.)

WHAT PRODUCT TO CHOOSE? 

The product choice for organic, inorganic and oily stains removal is special paste MangiaMacchia.

For biological stains, use mildew and mold detergent Algakill. This product not only removes mildew and mold formations, but also protects the surface from biological stains re-appearance for the next 6 months. 

For rust stains, use special "Rust Eater" gel.

APPLICATION: 

Each product has different application procedure, therefore carefully read the instructions for each product.

RESULT:

1. The stain is gone. Congritulations - you did it!

2. The stain hasn't gone completely. Repeat the whole procedure (especially in the case of oily stains, it may take up to 4 and 5 attempts).

3. If the stain didn't move at all, either you made a msitake while evaluating the nature of the stain (and consequently using the wrong chemical), or the stian is too old and will not come out, or it was not a stain, but another type of discoloration.

 "WATER STAINS" or "RINGS":

Polished marble, travertine, onyx, limestone, etc. are all calcite-based stones, and as such are affected by PH active liquids, mostly acid in nature. When an acidic liquid (fruit juice, wine) or strong-alkali (bleach) gets on a polished marble, travertine, it etches it on contact. That is, it leaves a mark of corrosion that looks like a water-stain or ring. Trying to remove the "stain" with special products would be useless exercise, since it is not a stain, no matter what it looks like. The only thing you can do is to polish the damaged surface.